Friday, January 28, 2011


first I have to admit that I am no crocheter...well, I know the stitches and I know how to crochet
but I feel out of sorts when doing it.
I crochet with my right hand and maybe that's the key,
while being a lefty..
it's more a fight than a pleasure for me to do this
but anyway sometimes I like it,
I stumbled across this tutorial and immediately had to start to crochet

after the third attempt with the pattern it worked

sure, it was, like everyday, a fight against the fury in the cat
the idea was to create a little pouch
I started with 27 ch and followed the stitchpattern
for 7 rows
then seamed together the rectangles, leaving the top of them open

ready to be lined with some cotton I had on hand
a cute little zippered pouch :)

ready to leave


look at this wild, wild fur bearing animal

seconds later Mr. Rossi hooked his claws into my leg.....

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

knitting and cats....

he decided that I have to finish another project first....

not a bad idea, since there are only the sleeves left to finish twentyten 

OMG it's ready and it fits so well ;))))
did the sleeves in a hurry and steam blocked it
so I can wear it today!!
and the colour - what can I say - it's not the best choice to my skin,
but I liked it too much...

how lucky we are, to be able to knit such wonderful unique things!!!

Monday, January 24, 2011

felted bunny

found this cute felted bunny tutorial
immediately had to make one and totally fell in love with it
not my style of easter decoration, but a real cute gift for a few of my friends ..

Sunday, January 23, 2011

kids craft

have to get ready with my kids crafting classes, can't get the ideas out of my mind - I know that they are there....
a few projects are ready, but not enough to fill the calender from february to august....

neddlefelted rabbit
more needlefelting
keychain with beads, pom-poms and ribbons
pom-pom rabbit
paperbeads handpainted
had a productive morning......

flowerpot animals

felted bracelet


just one of these wonderful lazy sundays......
I don't need much to be happy,.. a cup of coffee,,....a little knitting,

....working on a test knit for fallmasche

a sweater with saddleshoulders, v-neck and funny pleats at the sideseams

yesterday my copy of this booklet arrived, I know I'm late with this -

but it's not that easy to get some of those patterns here in germany
I love this sweater since I saw it the first time

yarn is waiting to become kaari

.....and he is waiting to get some food  :)

Saturday, January 22, 2011

a new hat

couldn't resist knitting another hat - for me - out of my leftovers
the hat is perfect to add creativity...
on this striped version I added pom-poms

isn't that cute !!

body of hat is a few cm longer than the solid grey, about 18 cm before decreasing.
used alpaca superlight and merino 120 for my hats

 there is a wonderful tutorial to make these flower brooches

Friday, January 21, 2011


my new hat, 
knitted a few more of these for friends, but never had time to take pics
so here is my very own one!!!
plain and simple with just enough slouch


worked with 2 yarns held together
brim worked flat in garter st
body of hat in rounds in stst 

you will need about 150 m alpaca superlight and the same amount of merino 120 
circulars and dpns US size 8

and, if you like, pom-poms, buttons, embroidery thread, embellish the little hat

see this post for inspiration

here is what I did:

gauge was 20 sts = 10 cm

CO 10 sts, work in garter st for 64 rows ridges, BO all sts
sew BO edge to CO edge to form a ring

pick up 96 sts around ring and join to knit in rounds
work in st st until body of hat measures 14 cm ( without band)
beg decreasing:

rnd 1: *k10, k2tog; rep from* to end
k 3 rnds
rnd 5: k4, k2tog, *k9, k2tog; rep from* to last 5 sts, k5
k 2 rnds
rnd 8: k2tog, *k8, k2tog; rep from* to last 8 sts, k8
k 1 rnd
rnd 10: k4, k2tog, *k7, k2tog; rep from* to last 3 sts, k3
k 1 rnd
rnd 12: k2tog, *k2, k2tog; rep from* to last 2 sts, k2
k 1 rnd
rnd 14: *k1, k2tog; rep from* to end
k 1 rnd
rnd 15 + 16: k2tog around

cut yarn, leaving an end for sewing. draw through rem sts, pull up tightly
and weave in end. 

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

hat in progress

working on a little slouchy hat

  • two different yarns
  •  garter brim
  • Stst body

will try to get it ready and write the pattern ...

new year, new blog

starting this new blog with my first written pattern .....

a little shrug

you will need:
about 500 m bulky yarn to get gauge
7mm needles or size to get gauge
7mm dpns or size to get gauge
tapestry needle

gauge: 12 sts = 10 cm in double moss st

double moss st (or double seed st):
multiple of 4 sts
row 1: *k2, p2; repeat to end
row 2: *k2, p2; repeat to end 
row 3: *p2, k2; repeat to end
row 4: *p2, k2; repeat to end
rep rows 1 - 4

garter st:
worked flat:
RS and WS k all sts

worked in rounds:
rnd 1: k all sts
rnd 2: p all sts
rep rnds 1 - 2

the main part of muse is knitted flat, shaped with shortrows, sts are picked up
for the ribbing, then you have to fold the piece in half and sew a few inches together,
sleeve sts are picked up to knit the sleeves in rounds, collar is worked seperately
then seamed to the fronts of the main part.

CO 78 sts and start working double moss st:
rows 1 + 4: 
*k2, p2; rep to last 2 sts, k2
rows 2 + 3: 
*p2, k2; rep to last 2 sts, p2

continue working rows 1 - 4 until work measures 40 cm from CO.

shortrow shaping:
RS: knit 30 sts in pattern, turn
WS: Sl 1, knit in pattern to end
RS: knit 28 sts in pattern, turn
WS: Sl 1, knit in pattern to end
RS: knit 26 sts in pattern, turn
WS: Sl 1, knit in pattern to end
continue working shortrows 5 times more

next row: knit in pattern to end
next row: knit 30 sts in pattern, turn
next row: Sl 1, knit in pattern to end
next row: knit 28 sts in pattern, turn
next row. Sl 1, knit in pattern to end
rep shortrows as you did on the other side
ending with a RS row

next row: BO all sts.

now we have to pick up sts for the ribbed bottom:
pick up and knit the middle 38 sts of the CO edge
work k1, p1 rib for a total of 8 rows
BO all sts.

next step is to sew the sides together:
fold piece to half, bring CO edge to BO edge to form a rectangle; leaving 14 cm open (measured from the fold) on both sides for armholes, sew sides together.

pick up sts to knit the sleeves:
pick up and knit 38 sts around armhole, join to knit in rounds.
knit in garter st to desired length, BO all sts.

work second sleeve to match

now pick up sts around fronts and neck,
k 3 rows Stst, BO all sts

CO 25 sts for collar and work back and forth in garter st until collar is long enough to match the fronts and neck. BO in pattern.
sew collar to the front opening, weave in ends and wear with proud.

this pattern is for personal use only

italian version translation by Carla Zamperetti

cosa serve:
circa 500 m  di  filato della grosseza per ottenere il campione
ferri 7
ferri 7 a doppie punte punte 
o della misura necessaria ad ottenere il campione.
campione: 12 m = 10 cm a p riso doppio.
multiplo di 4 m:
f 1: *2dir,2rov* ripetere per tutto il ferro
f 2: *lav le m come si presentano per tutto il ferro
f3: lav al dir le m che si presentano al rov e viceversa
f4: lav le m come si presentano

rip sempre i ferri da 1 a 4.
lavorato in piano: tutti i ferri al dir
lavorato in tondo:1 ferro dir, 1 ferro rov.
La parte principale del corpo si lavora in piano facendo dei ferri accorciati,le m sono riprese per fare le coste ,si piega poi il lavoro a metà e si cuce ai lati per creare l'apertura degli scalfi
Si riprendono poi le m attorno agli scalfi   con i ferri a d punte per lavorare la manica.
Il collo è lavorato a parte e poi cucito alla parte centrale del corpo.
Credo che se si riprendono le m ai lati  PRIMA di cucire, si possono evitare i ferri a d punte.
Montare 78m e lav a p riso doppio:
ferri 1 e 4:
*2dir,2rov,rip fino alle ultime 2m, 2 dir.
ferri 2 e 3:
*2 rov,2dir,rip e finire con 2 rov.
lav in questo modo fino a 40 cm
dir del lav: lav 30 m  a p riso doppio, girare il lavoro(lasciando in attesa il resto delle m)
rov del lav: passare 1m ,finire il ferro.
dl: lav 28m,girare
rl: passare 1m, finire il ferro
dl: lav 26m, girare
rl: pass 1m finire il ferro
continuare a lav a ferri accorciati altre 5 volte.
f succ: lavorare tutto il ferro a p riso d.
f succ: lav 30m, girare
f succ: passare 1m finire il ferro
f succ: lav 28m, girare.
f succ:passare una m,finire il ferro.
rip la lavorazione a ferri accorciati come fatto per l’altra parte finendo al dir del lav.
Al f succ chiudere tutte le m.
Ora riprenderemo le m per la parte a coste del fondo:
riprendere e lav al dir le 38m centrali del ferro di montaggio
lav a coste 1/1 per 8 ferri,poi chiudere.
ora cuciamo i lati
piegare il lavoro a metà nel senso della lunghezza ,portare il ferro di montaggio sul f di chiusura,a formare un rettangolo;cucire le parti laterali lasciando 14 cm per lo scalfo(misurati dalla piegatura)  .
Se non usate i ferri a doppie punte, non cucite.
riprendere le m per fare le maniche:
riprendere e lav al dir 38m attorno allo scalfo e lav a legaccio fino alla lunghezza desiderata, poi chiudere.
Ripetere per l’altra manica
ora riprendiamo le m attorno i davanti e il collo,lav 3 ferri a m rasata poi chiudere.
Montare 25m per il colloe lav a legaccio fino a raggiungere la lunghezza necessaria  di davanti e collo,poi chiudere (sul rov del lav lavorando dir)
Cucire il collo al davanti ,nascondere i fili. this pattern is for personal use only

french version traduction par MiniCousettes

Traduction par MiniCousettes avec l’autorisation de la créatrice (juillet 2013)
Environ 500 mètres de gros fil
Une aiguille à laine
Aiguille circulaire 7 mm
Aiguilles doubles pointes 7 mm (facultatif)
12 mailles = 10 cm de double point de riz
m = maille
rg = rang
d = maille endroit
v = maille envers
Double point de riz
Sur un multiple de 4 mailles
Rg 1 : « 2d, 2 v », répéter jusqu’à 2 m avant la fin puis faire 2d sur les 2 dernières mailles
Rg 2 : tricoter les mailles comme elles se présentent
Rg 3 : contrarier les mailles
Rg 4 : tricoter les mailles comme elles se présentent
Répéter les rangs 1 à 4
En résumé : sur l’endroit on contrarie toutes les mailles et sur l’envers on tricote les mailles comme elles se
présentent. On obtient une sorte de damier (pas si éloigné du point astrakan en moins volumineux)
Point mousse
A plat (aiguilles droites ou aiguille circulaire en aller‐retour) : endroit et envers sont tricotés à l’endroit
En cercle (aiguilles circulaires) : 1 rang endroit, 1 rang envers (répéter ces 2 rangs)
Jersey endroit
A plat : 1 rang endroit, 1 rang envers (répéter ces 2 rangs)
Le modèle se tricote en plusieurs pièces faites soit en récupérant des mailles sur la pièce principale, soit en
tricotant à part pour ensuite coudre sur la pièce principale. Description dans l’ordre de réalisation :
Pièce principale :
Tricoté en aller‐retour sur l’aiguille circulaire
Le haut est formé grâce à des rangs raccourcis simples
Puis plié en 2 pour former les emmanchures
Bas :
Tricoté sur les mailles récupérées au centre de la base de la pièce principale
Manches :
Tricotées en cercle partir des mailles récupérées sur les emmanchures
Col :
Tricoté à part puis ajouté à la pièce principale grâce à une couture
Pièce principale
Base :
Monter 78 mailles en double point de riz
Continuer jusqu’à 40 cm de hauteur totale : terminer par un rang envers
Formation des rangs raccourcis simples :
Premier coté (à droite)
Rangs impairs = endroit du travail
Rangs paires = envers du travail

rg 1 Tricoter 30 m, Tourner
rg 2 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rg 3 Tricoter 28 m, Tourner
rg 4 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rg 3 Tricoter 26 m, Tourner
rg 4 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rangs suivants
Continuer ainsi encore 5 fois (jusqu’à « tricoter 16 m » soit 16 rg au total)
Deuxième coté (à gauche)
Rangs impairs = envers du travail
Rangs paires = endroit du travail
rg 17 Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rg 18 Tricoter 30 m, Tourner
rg 19 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rg 20 Tricoter 28 m, Tourner
rg 21 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rg 22 Tricoter 26 m, Tourner
rg 21 Glisser 1 m, Tricoter jusqu’à la fin
rangs suivants
Continuer ainsi encore 5 fois (jusqu’à « tricoter 16 m » soit 16 rg au total)
Terminer par un rang endroit
Puis rabattre toutes les mailles
Relever les 38 mailles centrales du bas de la pièce principale (sur le rang de montage)
Tricoter en côtes 1x1 pendant 8 rangs
Rabattre toutes les mailles
Formation des emmanchures
Poser la pièce principale à plat (envers sur le dessus, mailles rabattues en haut et côtes en bas)
Rabattre les coins sur le centre pour former les emmanchures (voir image ci‐dessous)
Coudre les cotés en laissant environ 14 cm à partir du bord pour les emmanchures
Relever 38 mailles autour des emmanchures avec une aiguille circulaire ou des aiguilles doubles pointes
Les rejoindre en cercle
Tricoter en cercle au point mousse
Rabattre quand la longueur souhaitée est atteinte
Variante : alterner les rangs de point mousse et de jersey endroit pour un coté plus graphique
Préparation du col :
Relever les mailles autour du cou et du devant
Faire 3 rgs de jersey endroit
Rabattre toutes les mailles
Monter 25 mailles sur une aiguille circulaire
Tricoter en aller‐retour au point mousse
Tricoter jusqu’à atteindre la longueur du col (à vérifier sur le modèle)
Rabattre toutes les mailles
Coudre le col sur les devants (sur les 3 rangs de jersey endroit)
Ca y est c’est fini.